Historical and Contextual Studies: Photography and the styled image

XX Century Fashion and Beauty Photography

Edward Steighten photographed ledy sat in orange dress, which was designed by Fortuni.

This photograph of Gloria Swanson (1924) which was copied over and ever again by many people. Also, was photographed by Edward Steighten. She was a huge Hollywood star and icon of glamour at that time. This photograph looks mysterious with lace over the photograph, amazing enigmatic effect.

Anita Chace (1925) photographed by Edward Steichen. This photograph is perfectly reflecting the art movement at that time, which was very moder art of Art Deco. This name came from the exhibition i Paris.

In 1920s you had the development of photographers and fashion. Steichen was one of the pioneers to create photographs rather than images.

One of the first black woman models was Josphine Baker. She was Americal born French dancer, singer and actress as well. Photograph by Geotge Hoyningen-Huene. Published in Vogue October 1934.

Incredible Gretta Garbo (1931) - influential in photographs of Kate Moss nowadays.

Elsa Schiaparelli - Italian Fashion Designer -wearing Napoleon hat and pink jacket of her own designs (1937, Life magazine).

in 1930s - platinum blonde women, sexy, naughty, very thin eye brows, dark red lip, sensual gaze. Photographed by George Hurrell. He've crated an ideal standards of high end Hollywood glamour in photography, genre of studuo portraits.

Mid 30s to 1940s - photography was influenced by Surrealist art movement and Salvador Dali.
As the second world war started there was rationing of clothes and fabric. Yet one accessorie which wasn't rationed were hats, and so they became incredibly important. Tight, knee lengh skirts due to limit of fabric. Women used utilitarian fabrics, curtain and table cloths to create fashion. Here, when Salvador Dali's surrealism fashion came in handy, an image of lady's hands emerging from the wall, no use of photoshop.

The Adrian Fashion line best known for its glamorous gowns for the movie sirens of the Golden Age - Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford, Hedy Lamarr, Lana Turner, Norma Shearer, and others.

Delightful image of Lauren McCall, model and movie star. Note trademark hairstyle and shoulders pads:

1950's Vogue Cover, signifies the beginning of the new era after the war, especially for women. Everybody wanted to become goddesses and wanted to fulfil their lives:

Merilyn Monroe 1954 Photo Richard Avedon. Cheesy smile, sexy woman:

Everybody wanted to be, sexy, hostess, wife and a mother in one.

1960 - New role of woman, it was radical change. Twiggyrepresents child like style, very young model, from working class. Short haircut, boy-ish style clothing. Everything change since then.

First British supermodels: The most beautiful woman was considered to be Jean Shrimpton. 1965 Bazar Cover - revolutionary magazine cover. Futuristic times, heavy eye lashes, black eye liner, defined eaye brows:

Back then people used to do their own make-up. Twiggy used to do her own eyes, and she created her own eye lashes

1964 - photograph of Jean Shrimpton by Richard Avedon. Very futuristic and forward looking:

60's-70's from Futuristic era into Flower Power. Make up was influenced by flowers:

Verushka - model from Germany:

1966 " - Le Smocking" Photographed by Helmut Newton, tuxedo suit designed by Yves Saint Laurent

Male and female roles, women not to wear troussers rule was broken.

Grace Coddington - editor of the American Vogue - was a model in 1970's

1980's - big shoulder pads are in. Women wanted to get into men's clothes. Business woman with big shoulders suits.

Princess Diana was a big fashion icon.